Gowns by…
Hello and welcome to Cinema Wellman. I am your host, David and Happy Mother’s Day to all the moms out there.
We literally wouldn’t be here without you, and I know how to use the word literally.
Today’s episode is dedicated to my mother, Jean, who is responsible for my love of movies, and lists, and baseball, and cooking, and…well, Jean had quite a positive impact on me.
Today’s episode is titled “Gowns by…” because it’s a credit that I started keeping an eye on several years ago in all the old movies I was watching because I love reading those old credits.
Short, to the point, and all front loaded!
At the end, you got “The End,” and that was it!
I still enjoy credits, but with some movies these days they take 8-10 minutes, and I just don’t have that time.
I appreciate your efforts, but I just can’t handle 10 minutes of credits after the movie is over.
I’ve always paid attention to costume designers and costumes by credits because of my love for Edith Head, and I started to notice that quite a few old movies had the credit “Gowns by…” which is pretty specific when it comes to costume design.
And that’s when I started to see the same names over and over and over after the words “Gowns by…”
Gowns by Milo.
Gowns by Orry-Kelly.
Gowns by Adrian.
Who were these “gown people” who decided to specialize in gowns?
I needed to know.
The reason I’m dedicating this episode to my mother, other than it being Mother’s Day, is that she was an excellent seamstress in her day and her sewing corner in the playroom of our house (expertly constructed by my dad) along with her nearby gigantic fabric table were epic and a location of constant activity.
So, I knew my mother knew fashion and how to design and make clothes.
What I didn’t know, until after she had passed, is that she had dreams of becoming a fashion designer.
When I found that out, all of that Hollywood worship she had growing up came more into focus.
All of the pictures she cut out of movie magazines and hung on her walls could possibly have had a “fashion focus.”
Maybe she aspired to dress some of the stars that adorned her bedroom walls as a teenager.
In any event, I was told that my grandfather shut down any dreams of her going to college in New York City to study fashion design, and that doesn’t surprise me.
What also doesn’t surprise me is that my mother never told me about any of this because she was never a “What could have been” person, although she raised one.
You never know. If she went to college to study fashion design, you may have seen the credit; “Gowns by Jean.”
We’re not going to focus on friend of Cinema Wellman and Costume Design GOAT Edith Head today, but she certainly needs to be mentioned.
Edith Head had an astounding list of 432 film credits, and while she’s most credited as a “Costume Designer,” she sometimes got a “Gowns by…” credit when dressing Audrey Hepburn or Grace Kelly.
As an 8-time Oscar winner, she needs to be mentioned here. She should probably be mentioned in EVERY episode!
At some point between the 1930s-40s, credits moved away from specific credits like “Gowns by…” and pivoted to “Costumes by…” or “Costumes Designed by…” and then just “Costume Designer,” so “Gowns by…” has kind of disappeared, and we wanted to salute three icons in that field today.
Let’s begin with Milo Anderson.
Milo Anderson was a costume designer known for The Adventures of Robin Hood, To Have and Have Not, and Mildred Pierce.
On the set of Robin Hood, Anderson substituted woven string sprayed with metal paint for chainmail when the real thing proved too noisy for filming.
Notable films with the “Gowns by Milo” credit include; Captain Blood, Dodge City, Confessions of a Nazi Spy, High Sierra, and Yankee Doodle Dandy.
You wouldn’t think there were a lot of gowns in movies like Dodge City and High Sierra, but women in movies back in the day tended to dress.
Next up is Orry-Kelly, who was born in Australia in 1897 and went on to revolutionize the Warners Costume Department after he joined the studio in 1932.
As comfortable designing prison uniforms for I Am a Fugitive for a Chain Gang as he was designing haute couture, Orry-Kelly worked on more than 300 films during his career.
He was the exclusive costume/gown designer for Kay Francis and was the chief costume designer for Warner Bros. Studios from 1932 to 1944.
Orry-Kelly was a three-time Best Costume Designer Oscar winner for An American in Paris, Les Girls, and Some Like it Hot.
Notable films with “Gowns by Orry-Kelly” credit include; 42nd Street, Gold Diggers of 1933, Midnight Alibi, Flirtation Walk, Dark Victory, The Maltese Falcon, and Casablanca.
Not bad.
And finally, there’s Adrian Gilbert.
Born in 1903 to Gilbert and Helena Greenburg he took his name by combining his first name with the first name of his father, but he mostly went by “Adrian.”
He is credited for creating the padded shoulder fashion trend popularized by Joan Crawford.
Even though he was never nominated for an Academy Award, he is considered to be one of Hollywood’s greatest costume designers.
He did the costumes for the Munchkins in The Wizard of Oz, and those costumes were made entirely of felt.
Adrian had retired from film before the first Academy Awards for Costume Design were handed out, or he would have been well compensated in that area.
Notable films with “Gowns by Adrian” credit include; Grand Hotel, Dinner at Eight, Anna Karenina, The Great Ziegfeld, The Women, and Woman of the Year.
Along with being Costume Designer on The Wizard of Oz.
You may have heard of that one.
Well, that is a wrap for a quick little Mother’s Day episode since I’m thinking of Jean today and some of the things that gave her joy which are movies and fashion.
I also like to think I brought her joy as well.
We hope you’re with us next time when I wish I could tell you what we had for you, but I cannot.
Lots of irons in the fire, and you never know what to expect here at Cinema Wellman.
Happy Mother’s Day to all the moms out there!
I love you Jean, thank you for everything you did for me including playing goalie with real pucks in your kitchen.
You were weak to the blocker side, but still quite formidable.
Sorry for all of the bruised shins, mom.
Until next time, take care.




















